The design for this foot came out of my head. After all the years of studying period furniture, I drew something that would have been typical of a piece like this. In fact, the whole piece is made “in the style of” rather than a direct ‘reproduction” of an original. I’ll post pictures of an oxbow chest I copied (with a couple of modifications) over at Lumberjocks so you can see the difference. It’ll take a a couple of days to get it done but you should be able to get there by clicking the “Lumberjocks” link on this page.

You spent too much time looking at my walls to know I have a pile of foot patterns haning up there. To be honest, I don’t think the old guys applied too many rules to their ogee feet. I’ve seen very clumsy ones, large ones, small ones and everything in between. I basically started with the overall size of the chest. This one was driven by the space the customer needed to fill. Once I had a space to work in, I just proportioned out the case to something that looked good to me and the height of the foot just fell in line. From there, I drew something that looked good to my eye. Not very technical, I know but it’s what I did.

Be patient on the bottom question. It will get answered in good time. It should be resolved in the next segment, if I recall how I wrote the posts.

I scraped nearly all the surfaces in the end. The secondaries got scrub planed. The was no sanding on the piece prior to assembly. You’ll see that I sand some exterior parts before the base molding and top are attached. I never sand the interior parts.

As to the sawmakers, sounds like you’re requesting a tool review. I’ll try to squeeze that in with tomorrow’s scheduled post. If not, it will be very soon thereafter.

I looked at a larger picture of the chest and I understand why the thicker piece on the front ogee feet.

The upper part of the ogee foot at the front has to curve inward more at the outer part of the case than at the inside portion. This is because of the curved base molding.

Knew I’d figger it out (with a little help or maybe a lot). 8^)

Thanks,

Charlie M.

Actually the thickness of the sides are determined by the curve of your ogee foot. The thickness of the fronts is determined by the curve of the ogee as well as the curve of the chest front. If I could figure out how to verbally describe how to figure all of that out, I’d probably be something other than a furnituremaker.

Glad you enjoyed the post. The next one will be MUCH more interesting…or as interesting as shaping feet can be.