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	<title>Comments on: Oxbow chest part 6</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.acanthus.com/blog/2008/06/12/oxbow-chest-part-6/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.acanthus.com/blog/2008/06/12/oxbow-chest-part-6/</link>
	<description>Tips, tricks and stories for woodworkers of all levels.</description>
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		<title>By: daddy-O</title>
		<link>http://www.acanthus.com/blog/2008/06/12/oxbow-chest-part-6/comment-page-1/#comment-62</link>
		<dc:creator>daddy-O</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 14 Jun 2008 21:20:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.acanthus.com/blog/?p=57#comment-62</guid>
		<description>Chuck great post now I se what you did with th bottom. As many others have said I like the pin router jig. What I also like is the clever way you collected the wood chips with that little jig clamped on. It is usually these kind of thing that make me go Dah! I could have done that. Well next time thanks for the tip. On Glens post for the Ma block front with the dove tail you should us a book with pictures and facts in it. Can you recomend your top 5 books coving peroid furniture for some one who wants to learn about it. I guess the book you are showing would be one of them. Thanks</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Chuck great post now I se what you did with th bottom. As many others have said I like the pin router jig. What I also like is the clever way you collected the wood chips with that little jig clamped on. It is usually these kind of thing that make me go Dah! I could have done that. Well next time thanks for the tip. On Glens post for the Ma block front with the dove tail you should us a book with pictures and facts in it. Can you recomend your top 5 books coving peroid furniture for some one who wants to learn about it. I guess the book you are showing would be one of them. Thanks</p>
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		<title>By: Charles Mullins</title>
		<link>http://www.acanthus.com/blog/2008/06/12/oxbow-chest-part-6/comment-page-1/#comment-61</link>
		<dc:creator>Charles Mullins</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 14 Jun 2008 17:19:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.acanthus.com/blog/?p=57#comment-61</guid>
		<description>Oops! On closer inspection, I see you have a bearing---my bad!

Charlie M.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Oops! On closer inspection, I see you have a bearing&#8212;my bad!</p>
<p>Charlie M.</p>
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		<title>By: Charles Mullins</title>
		<link>http://www.acanthus.com/blog/2008/06/12/oxbow-chest-part-6/comment-page-1/#comment-60</link>
		<dc:creator>Charles Mullins</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 14 Jun 2008 17:16:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.acanthus.com/blog/?p=57#comment-60</guid>
		<description>Chuck,

I really like the pin router setup. With an offset it can be used to cut swanneck moldings too. I think I would install a bearing at the tip to make it a little smoother. It might not be necessary though. What ever cranks your tractor!

That&#039;s a real good post.

Thanks

Charlie M.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Chuck,</p>
<p>I really like the pin router setup. With an offset it can be used to cut swanneck moldings too. I think I would install a bearing at the tip to make it a little smoother. It might not be necessary though. What ever cranks your tractor!</p>
<p>That&#8217;s a real good post.</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
<p>Charlie M.</p>
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		<title>By: ghuey</title>
		<link>http://www.acanthus.com/blog/2008/06/12/oxbow-chest-part-6/comment-page-1/#comment-59</link>
		<dc:creator>ghuey</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 12 Jun 2008 16:59:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.acanthus.com/blog/?p=57#comment-59</guid>
		<description>Chuck,

Another interesting entry. I find the pin-routing jig cool. I&#039;ll be sure to use that in the future.

I&#039;ve found using a washer (ordinary or in some cases fender), or at least a round object – I turned a wooden piece when laying out gooseneck moldings – is an easy way to step out your bottom blade. Put a pencil into the center of the washer and the roundness travels easily along the blade being copied.

Also, when you mention the molding is dovetailed into the case bottom on some period chests, is that a single large dovetail, such as in MA block-fronts? I wasn&#039;t aware of the method being used in designs other than block-fronts. Care to elaborate?

Thanks,
Glen</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Chuck,</p>
<p>Another interesting entry. I find the pin-routing jig cool. I&#8217;ll be sure to use that in the future.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve found using a washer (ordinary or in some cases fender), or at least a round object – I turned a wooden piece when laying out gooseneck moldings – is an easy way to step out your bottom blade. Put a pencil into the center of the washer and the roundness travels easily along the blade being copied.</p>
<p>Also, when you mention the molding is dovetailed into the case bottom on some period chests, is that a single large dovetail, such as in MA block-fronts? I wasn&#8217;t aware of the method being used in designs other than block-fronts. Care to elaborate?</p>
<p>Thanks,<br />
Glen</p>
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