Well, for those who got my little allusion, the oxbow chest blog is finally coming to a close. I’m out of things to make for it. And I’m out of pictures of meaningful processes to show you. I just need to wrap up a few loose ends.
It’s been a while so let’s recap what happened in the last segment. I shaped up the ogee feet and scribed them to the base molding that was already applied. I then glued them to the molding and proceeded with blocking the feet. 
Once all the feet and blocks have dried, it’s time to move on to the drawer fronts and the case top. That’s where we pick things up today.
In this installment I’m going to work primarily on the ogee feet but I had better remove those clamps I had on the base molding from the last segment.
With the clamps off the case, it really starts to look like I’m making some progress. I have milled and assembled my case. I have the drawer blades dovetailed into the case making sure my beaded front is addressed and I’ve made an attached my curved base molding. Cut out and shape some feet today. Once they’re glued on, I’m down to shaping drawer fronts, dovetailing drawers and finishing. Well, there’s a few other odds and ends that need to get tossed in there but at least it sounds like the end is in sight.
I knew when I wrote the post for the sixth installment of my oxbow build that SOMEONE would ask about the molding dovetail reference. Well, Glen Huey get’s the gold star for being the first one to ask the question.
In this week’s installment, I’m going be working on the ogee feet. As a quick recap, last time I got all the blades dovetailed into the case. My next step is to disassemble the dry fitted case, scrape all the interior surfaces and glue up. 
Now I know last time I said something about putting in the drawer runners but when I look at it, that’s not really a hard process. After all, it’s just a few pieces of poplar fitted into the dadoes of the case sides. So, I’ll do that at some point after I have the case glued up.
Before we get into this segment, I wanted to address a question, or two, from daddy-O from the last installment. He asked “I think but can”t tell that the bit is putting 2 beads on the edge at the same time.”. So here’s a closeup of the final pic in the last post. Hopefully, you can see exactly what’s going on. It is a double bead that’s being cut by the same cutter I ground for the initial Oxbow post. And to answer another of daddy-O’s requests, click on the pic. When I get a free moment, I’ll try to rework the previous posts to utilize the “click to enlarge” feature for all the pictures.
Let’s pick up from where we left off. I had milled and cut all the parts to size, cutout and shaped the blades. If you noticed, I did not bead the case sides. The reason for this is, I want to route the dovetails into the case side for the blades first. This reduces the chance of tearing out the beads on the case.
In this series of posts, I’ll show the step by step construction of a New England Oxbow chest. You’re probably familiar with a serpentine (the face of the piece is concaved on either side and convex in the middle) but you may not have seen an oxbow, or reverse serpentine chest. In a reverse serpentine, the outer portions of the case front are shaped in a convex fashion while the center is concaved. This may sound a little confusing, but stick with me and it will all make sense. [Read more →]
